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How to build a Top-Bar Hive (Horizontal Hive)
We like this design of hive because of its ease of use. It is easier for me to manipulate the top bars rather than the frames of Langstroth hives, and having only one level to think about is much easier. You can set aside the bad comb to one end of the horizontal hive. This is Les Crowder's design with different materials.
Materials Needed:
Lumber: 2x10s ($13.60 for a 16ft. 2x10 at Lowes Hardware)
6 Lag screws with washers for each Top bar hive
Hand Saw (optional)
Drill to pre-drill holes for lag screws
Circular saw or Table saw [preferred] (to do the 30 degree angle cut on the bottom board to make the slopped sides of the KTBH)
Lumber: 2x10s ($13.60 for a 16ft. 2x10 at Lowes Hardware)
6 Lag screws with washers for each Top bar hive
Hand Saw (optional)
Drill to pre-drill holes for lag screws
Circular saw or Table saw [preferred] (to do the 30 degree angle cut on the bottom board to make the slopped sides of the KTBH)
We use cinder blocks as hive stands for Top bar hives. It is good to level the Top-bar hive because the bees are drawing out foundation-less comb. Otherwise, if it is very off level, the comb will go toward where gravity takes it. Beekeepers who use foundation do not have this to think about.
Langstroth Hive
We are going to get advise from a woodworking friend who knows of a stronger joint than the finger and rabbet joints. I will post how to make that joint once he shows us. 5 frame nucleus hives when stacked 3 high (15 frames of bees in total/equal to a story and a half if using 10 frame boxes.) I have read actually overwinter better than 10 frame hives of the same volume of bees. In nature bee colonies live in more narrow spaces than ten frame box hives. So I will be experimenting with keeping bees in multiple stacked nucleus hives. One problem I can think of would be that during a hurricane the wind could much more easily knock over tall stacked nucleus hives than 10 frame hives. So I am going to keep the tall stacked 5 frame hives right up next to each other on a hive stand so that they are supporting each other, and alternating entrances from back and front so that the bees don't drift into the hive right up against next to them. This will also help a little going through winter, keeping them huddled up on the hive stand this way. During the honey season the 5 frame hives will be stacked very high so I think I will need a step ladder to take honey off the top of the hive. But a plus will be that the 5 frame boxes full of honey will be only half the weight of a 10 frame box of honey!!
2x 10s meant for construction work will be good for making these nucleus hives. It is cheaper than the thinner pine wood sold at Lowe's hardware. ($12.30 for a 16ft. 2x10). 2x10s are just slightly too short for a deep frame box, but by tacking on a strip of wood to the top or bottom of the nucleus box will make it the right height for deep frames, this is cheaper than cutting down 2x12s to the right size, and I like that it does not waste wood, though this wood is quite cheap anyway.
2x 10s meant for construction work will be good for making these nucleus hives. It is cheaper than the thinner pine wood sold at Lowe's hardware. ($12.30 for a 16ft. 2x10). 2x10s are just slightly too short for a deep frame box, but by tacking on a strip of wood to the top or bottom of the nucleus box will make it the right height for deep frames, this is cheaper than cutting down 2x12s to the right size, and I like that it does not waste wood, though this wood is quite cheap anyway.
Materials needed:
2x10s (cheaper than the thinner 3/4'' white pine wood. $12.33 for 16ft. 2x10 at Lowes Hardware right now. 2019 November.)
Dado blade (to make a strong joint)/or oak dowels and screws.
Glue (maybe, or maybe not. The exterior liquid nail brand was not weather resistant and was washed out.)
Dado blade (to make a strong joint)/or oak dowels and screws.
Glue (maybe, or maybe not. The exterior liquid nail brand was not weather resistant and was washed out.)